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Salguero moved to South L.

He had to build the restaurant from the ground up in an empty lot, and in — a year after the restaurant opened — the Great Recession hit. The restaurant struggled through its first three years, but finally made its mark.

Mark Hawk-Caveman Reeves

According to Salguero, what kept him going was his vision for his restaurant — a place where the ingredients were natural and high-quality. Salguero emphasized that the chicken was quite literally the heart of the operation: In fact, the first thing that he placed in the restaurant was the rotisserie.

After setting it down, it was too heavy to move, so he designed the rest of the establishment around it.

His focus on chicken shines with the Cave Club Sandwich, where the shredded meat is arranged on an artisan burger bun and served with freshly cut fries. Other dishes Salguero added to the menu display his creativity, and he sees the reason behind his ambition as simple: his passion for food.

Lolo, who loves to eat and loves to talk, ran for mayor in this impoverished corner of Venezuela. It was a kind of campaign ad: I eat well; vote for me, and you can too.

Further defense of the caveman

Lolo raises, buys and sells cattle, which is what was on the menu that morning — barbecue for breakfast. The way they do it here is called carne en vara , which means beef on a stick. It is primitive, elemental and delicious. We stopped at a nameless restaurant next to the road that consisted of a tin roof with no walls, a few plain wooden tables and chairs. In one corner was a steel box without a top, about two and a half feet high.

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A few logs were burning inside. Large hunks of bright red beef, cut from the carcass of a cow that was raised a few miles away and probably killed yesterday, were cooking on skewers over the coals.

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Parts were charred. Parts were bloody.

It was caveman food. The way carne en vara works is you tell the cook how much you want, by weight.

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The first time I ate carne en vara for dinner , I was in the company of a more penurious friend who liked to order by the half kilo or quarter kilo. He started with a kilo or a kilo and a half and went up from there. The cook pulled the stick off the fire and sliced a chunk of meat into a tin pan, which he put onto a hanging scale.

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